The signature appetizer is a sea scallop sandwich: perfectly seared sea scallops between layers of thin golden potatoes atop a citrusy shellfish-stock sauce.

At Drunken Beauty Veranda, out came a haystack of the thinnest fried potatoes I had ever seen, looking like fried vermicelli noodles and tossed with bits of chilis and cilantro.

Mr. Palmer's signature appetizer, which remains as good as ever, is called sea scallop sandwich: perfectly seared sea scallops between layers of thin golden potatoes atop a lemony shellfish stock sauce.

It arrived with a generous portion of creamy polenta, which our waitress had previously described as thin mashed potatoes.

Other fine offerings included house-cured gravlax served with a thin potato pancake and baby greens, three fat shrimps impaled on a stem of rosemary, and, in season, a crab cake with crab galore.

Foie gras is its usual buttery self, served with thin crisp-fried potatoes.

Fortunately, the legacy of Cafe Andrusha lives on in the thin, crisp, greaseless potato pancakes ($9) that arrive with fresh, chunky applesauce.

Eventually, Crum opened his own restaurant that featured the thin, fried potatoes.

From the regular menu, one homey selection that missed the mark was confit of duck (the breast was a tad dry but the leg meat was rich and moist) with crisped thin potatoes and remarkably tasteless truffles.

Slice the potatoes very thin (you will need enough to cover the surface of the fish fillets).