Every Italian region has its own special breads and sweets for Easter.

I chose the "bread off the mats" special.

Perched atop its stand on a crowded restaurant table, it leaves room underneath for the condiments and special bread that always appear with it.

These special breads are part of the traditional customs that have been around for centuries.

The stories behind these special occasional breads derive from religious beliefs, the dominant being Roman Catholic.

Nathan ate a special gluten-free bread, nearly gone.

"It's a special bread made in Portugal for the holidays," she said.

For example, his wife, the daughter of a baker, baked him a special wheat-free bread.

It is a special bread made with raisins, sultanas and mixed peel.

"It's our everyday bread you can buy in any shop; we don't produce any special bread for export," he said.