"I invented it in 1975 or 1976, when we were starting to use the lighter sauces," he said.

Many of the meat dishes are cooked slowly with light sauces.

Our favorite had shredded ginger, onions, scallions and mushrooms in a light brown sauce.

Meat, when available on ration book is usually served in light sauces.

This makes a light sauce, also suggesting spring.

The cooking is straightforward, fresh and well seasoned with light herb-infused sauces.

But the very light sauce drizzled over it is unpleasantly vinegary.

"I taught them how to make lighter sauces and to use fresh ingredients instead of canned."

The recipes below are substantial enough for company; they have little fat but get plenty of flavor from marinades and light sauces.

Beside the golden fish is a thin slice of something in a light brown sauce, which Martel samples.