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Taramosalata, the Greek caviar spread, and melitzanosalata, a finely chopped eggplant mixture, were fine.
Only two starters were subpar: the overly salty tarama (Middle Eastern caviar spread) and the watery avgolemono soup.
Failing a Zabar's inventory in her own refrigerator, Ms. Ephron is content with a single jar of taramosalata, the Greek caviar spread.
Peter Meehan, a Times restaurant critic, recommends Acasa, where he liked the caviar spread and a dessert translated as "Fried Cheese Donuts with sweet vanilla creamy sauce."
Giant appetizer platters may also include sahanda sucuk, a garlicky beef sausage; yogurtlu ispanak, stewed dilled spinach with yogurt and garlic, and tarama salatasi, a zesty version of Greek red caviar spread.
A supremely creamy caviar spread, much like taramosalata, and other mezes with a Mediterranean accent, like a garlicky, light bean spread and a too-smoky eggplant dip, evince the Greek and Turkish influences on Romania's cooking.