At $20, Columbia Semillon of 1989 from Washington is the best buy on a list that contains no bottles priced under $20.

Along with these high flyers are bottles priced as low as $18 and wine by the glass for as little as $6.

And because the Wayne store sells liquor, several bottles of very good reasonably priced wine.

A short, straightforward wine list, with a third of the bottles priced from $13 to $19, will appeal to penny-wise drinkers.

The minimum purchase required each quarter is one case of wine - 12 bottles, priced at about $160 to $400.

The casual list at Aegean East, with more than half its bottles priced between $11 and $15, reflects that outlook.

Bolla, for example, puts six bottles of its wines in a handsome wooden case, priced at about $50.

A small wine list of 12 whites, 11 reds, is mostly Californian, with bottles priced from $18 to $36.

But with bottles priced as high as $49, vintage years should appear on the list.

The wine selection is American, with about two dozen each of whites and reds and many bottles priced in the $30's.