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But two classic starters, spinach pie and cheese pie, were weakened by limp filo dough.
A. Phyllo dough (also known as filo dough) comes from Greek and Middle Eastern cuisines.
Filo dough is made with flour, water, and a small amount of oil and rakı or white vinegar, though some dessert recipes also call for egg yolks.
Desert options feature the sesame spice cookie chebakia, tartlets of filo dough with dried fruit, or cheesecake with dates.
Morels, shiitake mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, fresh game, arborio rice, goat cheese, filo dough, couscous - all are easy to find in major cities.
Eish el-Saraya Fatir are pancakes (filo dough) stuffed with everything from eggs to apricots or fruit of choice.
Lavash is a very popular Armenian flat bread, and Armenian baklava is a popular dessert made from filo dough.
Desserts include baklava; milk pudding made with rose water and topped with nuts and honey; and filo dough stuffed with walnuts and pistachios.
Desserts include bird's nest, filo dough stuffed with walnuts and pistachios; ladyfinger, filo dough stuffed with walnuts; and rice pudding.
The food is tasty but mild, with the traditional feast ($26.95) including soup, salad, bastilla (filo dough stuffed with egg, chicken and almonds), chicken kabobs, either lemon chicken or halibut filet, and baklava.
While the filo-dough recipe is most common, many recipes from the Greek islands call for a crust made of flour and water to form a crunchier, calzone-like exterior in place of the flaky filo dough.
Sarma is a Turkish dish of grape, cabbage or chard leaves rolled around a filling usually based on minced meat, or a sweet dish of filo dough wrapped around a filling often of various kinds of chopped nuts.
"My mom and dad came here in 1972," Mr. Najjar said as his sister and mother uncovered platters of Turkish delight, pistachios in filo dough, and shredded dough with walnuts in their wholesale bakery on Bay Ridge Avenue.
The table had Ramadan delicacies typical of Yemen: shurba, a stew of bulgur wheat and lamb; sambosa, ground meat in fried filo dough; and shafout, a spicy yogurt with pieces of pita bread, cilantro, cumin and garlic.
On a recent Friday night, Mr. Yaktubay stood - there is not even an upended milk crate to sit on - among the plasticene sacks of paprika and tahini, the watery troughs jiggling with olives, the snug trays of filo dough and feta cheese.
For business dinners, Gail Torreano, president of SBC Ameritech-Michigan, often turns to OPUS ONE (313-961-7766; $130) for what she calls its creative menu - cuisine that ranges from rack of lamb marinated in herbs and garlic to shrimp sheathed in filo dough.