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He uses it on broccoli raab and endive.
It is, in many places, served on a sandwich with greens (broccoli raab or spinach) and-controversially-provolone cheese.
But so is the broccoli raab flatbread, which will make believers out of those who turn up their noses at the bitter green.
Rapini or broccoli rabe (also spelled broccoli raab) is a green cruciferous vegetable.
The cabbage family - broccoli, brussels sprouts, broccoli raab, mustard greens and kale - is high in vitamin A. But aside from that, these vegetables are high in flavor.
Runners-up include orecchiette with broccoli raab and sausage; and a beguiling linguine with garlic and shrimp flavored with a sauce of Chardonnay, lemon juice and butter.
Shrimp wrapped in pancetta and grilled were overcooked to the point of dryness; the bed of broccoli raab on which they were served was far more appealing than the shrimp.
It is also found in Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, bok choy, kale, collards, Chinese broccoli, broccoli raab, kohlrabi, mustard, turnip, radish, arugula, and watercress.
Once seated, they would cover their tables with tiny plates of food of almost every description: mussels with Pernod, saffron pappardelle with rabbit, broccoli raab flatbread, skate wing with beets.
A simple grilled (organic) baby chicken, split and served with broccoli raab and a breadcrumb-stuffed tomato, could not be better (except on the occasion when it arrived quite rare); it needs no tinkering or extra ingredients, and it gets none.
An elegant little second-floor restaurant, Kai, serves lunches with salads and homemade soba noodle dishes, special teatime menus, and elaborate prix-fixe dinners from $55 to $110 that incorporate Western touches - like steamed black cod with a broccoli raab flan.